Application Guide: Getting Started
In most cases CPES™ can be applied with a cheap and disposable natural bristle brush. (Do not use foam brushes). CPES can be mixed in polyethylene and polypropylene containers (plastic paint buckets, margarine tubs, cottage cheese tubs, etc.), and metal containers. Do not use paper containers (cardboard paint buckets), polystyrene (foam) containers, or any disposable drink containers.

Many times a more precise or generous application of CPES is required. The Rot Doctor sells several application accessories for unique rot repair jobs... our CPES Injection Kit which includes a 50 ml syringe with 14 gauge 1.5″ needles. For overhead applications, we recommend the 1-liter Spray Bottle which comes with a funnel. If applied by spray, the nozzle should be set to COARSE spray to avoid losing CPES into the air. For large areas, we recommend solvent-resistant rollers available at home and hardware stores.

Initially CPES has a strong odor; the carrier solvents are powerful. The fumes dissipate eventually, but, take precautions while applying the CPES in an enclosed area or while spraying. We now offer a very good cartridge Respirator by Moldex, which is NIOSH and MSHA approved for organic fumes. Special attachments for dust and particulates are also available.

In areas where deep rot has been extracted, it may be necessary to follow the CPES rot treatment with resin and/or a filler. All of our products are molecularly compatible with each other for excellent bonding.

Layup and Laminating™ Epoxy Resin is a flowable mixture-- best applied with a brush, poured or injected using a caulking cartridge (we sell Re-usable Poly Caulking Tubes). Like CPES, it is a two-part, wood-derived epoxy formula. It bonds well with wood for a tough and somewhat flexible fill. For extremely high strength, we suggest using our Layup and Laminating Resin mixed with Fine Sawdust to the desired consistency. This mix can be toned to any shade of brown with our Brown Epoxy Coloring Agent.

Fill-it™ Epoxy Filler, also a two-part, wood-derived epoxy formula, has the consistency and manageability of putty and can be mixed and applied with a putty knife. It is reinforced with fiberglass strands and dries hard to an off-white, sandable finish. It too can be toned to any shade of brown with our Brown Epoxy Coloring Agent.

We recommend using vinyl gloves. Clean-up can be done with our Epoxy Cleanup Solvent or with lacquer thinner.

Basic Procedure for Light, Moderate and Severe Rot

The following diagrams and steps show the application process based on the severity of rot. Of course, each rot situation is unique and what you do will depend on what you're dealing with--but, these basic techniques will get you started. The folks at The Rot Doctor™ will answer any questions and give you technical advice via e-mail or by phone if you can't find the answer on our web site. We will also examine photos if they are sent to us as jpeg files.

Light Rot 1. Brush or dab CPES (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer™) on surface of rotted area allowing area to absorb all the liquid it can. LET CURE 1 TO 3 DAYS. 2. Optional: Go back over surface with Fill-It™ Epoxy Filler, if required.
Moderate Rot 1. Remove any badly rotted wood if necessary. Try to get the area as dry as possible. See Note 1. 2. Brush or inject CPES into and around rotted area. Apply all the liquid the area will accept. See Note 2. LET CURE 1 TO 3 DAYS. If wood is not as hard as desired, apply another coating of CPES. Again allow to cure 1 to 2 days. 3. Optional: Follow up with Layup & Laminating Epoxy Resin if area has groove/gouges where rot has been removed. Apply as many coats/layers as needed but LET CURE 24 HOURS BETWEEN COATS. 4. Optional: Apply Fill-It Epoxy Filler or a mix of our L & L Resin and Fine Sawdust for a smooth finish. Paint or apply desired covering after filler has set.
Severe Rot 1. Remove loose chunks of rotted wood. Try to get the area as dry as possible. See Note 1. Drill downward sloping holes for injection if large timber. 2. Completely soak (pour or use kitchen baster), spray and/or inject CPES with syringe into the rotted area. Apply generously. See Note 2. Make sure liquid flows into all cracks, grooves, and holes. LET CURE 1 TO 3 DAYS. 3. Flow Layup & Laminating Epoxy Resin to cavities where rot has been removed. See Note 3. If cavities are especially deep, sawdust can be added to the L & L Resin to give it more bulk. This will not diminish the hardness. Apply as many coats/layers as needed but LET CURE 24 HOURS BETWEEN COATS. 4. AND/OR... Apply Fill-It Epoxy Filler over surface area for smooth finish. Paint or apply desired covering after filler has set.

Note 1: You will get best results if the area is reasonably dry. Use a hair dryer, heat gun, space heater, vacuum exhaust, or even a lamp or utility light. For inaccessible areas, acetone poured into or over the wet, rotten area will help in displacing water. Use caution with all heating methods especially around volatile solvents.

Note 2: CPES has a very strong odor from the carrier solvents. Take caution in breathing the fumes. In small amounts indoors, good ventilation and an exhaust fan will suffice. If you are using CPES in an enclosed area or in large amounts, we recommend the use of a respirator for organic fumes. (We sell a very good one by Moldex).

Note 3: L & L Epoxy Resin is particularly valuable when it can self-flow into the rotted area. In some vertical applications this is not possible and a thin barrier film is all that can be applied prior to the application of Fill-It Epoxy Filler.

For your convenience, we condensed the Application Guide and Getting Started into one two page 8 1⁄2 x 11" pdf which is downloadable for printing. Click on the image to download. If you don't have Adobe's Acrobat Reader program, it is available for free on Adobe's website