Subject: Help... Stringer Repair..
Date: Thu, 04 Jun 1998
I have a 1980 Trojan F32 that has a small amount of rot--about 4"--around the limberholes in 3 of the floors... If you're familiar with the F32, the three affected floors are between the head and galley and the dinette. The top half is glass encapsulated...the rot doesn't APPEAR to extend beyond the exposed wood The plan is to cut out the rot, inject the surrounding wood with Git Rot, fill with fiberglass, and--some debate as to whether it's necessary to strengthen with sisterboards.
Got a better idea?
Well, whatever you do, don't use Git Rot. You might as well use any
epoxy resin. If you're interested in details, see our product testing on
Actually, if the rotten wood is pretty much intact and it is (or can be
made) reasonably dry, I would suggest just drilling a few access holes
through the glass top, injecting our Clear Penetrating Epoxy Resin
(CPES) until the wood won't accept any more, allowing it to cure (2-3
days) and then repeating the process. You can also take a brush and
brush the CPES on the outside of the bad wood, again repeating the
process after 2-3 days. The rotten wood will now be hard. And it will
last longer and hold better than the glass patching. It's still wood,
You can tell when you drill whether there are any gaps under the glass.
If you want to be a perfectionist (as I usually am), you can follow the
CPES treatment with our Layup & Laminating Resin. This is a particularly
slow-setting resin and will settle nicely into the bad wood over the
CPES. Should be stronger than it was originally. If you decide to use
the L&L Resin, I'd suggest making your access holes at least 1/4". That
way you can trickle in the resin without getting all tied up with
syringes. The holes can be filled with epoxy filler.
I have been using these products in this way for years, and they work.
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