CPES is also an excellent primer. All wood contains moisture, as well as varying amounts of "sap". Different woods have different amounts of these which are chemically attached to the cellulose wood fibers. To obtain a good bond between the wood and a surface coating, the fibers on the surface of the wood must be strongly bonded to the coating. If not, the wood surface soaks up the liquid part of the coating and leaves the solids on top where deterioration is relatively rapid. CPES™ contains a high percentage of special solvents to displace and dissolve both the wood moisture and the sap and oils to form an enduring bond with the wood fibers.
Are there alternative ways you can treat bad wood using cheaper epoxy resins? The answer is no, not if you want to do it right. All standard epoxy resins (including WEST) are petroleum based. They cure hard and brittle. WEST and others suggest that you can thin their resins using such things as acetone, MEK, toluene, or alcohol for greater penetration. This is true, but are you a chemist to mix the right thinners in the right proportions to carry resin through bad wood and into good wood? And when whatever you put in there evaporates, you're still left with a hard resin. It's like putting rocks in your wood. Why bother? We've done it all for you with a tested, tough, flexible wood derived resin product. You mix it 1:1, stir vigorously, and apply. It's that simple.
Minwax makes a wood hardener which is acrylic-based. This is not epoxy, is not nearly as strong, its long-term endurance is questionable, and in our experience its penetration is spotty. The solvents tend to leave the acrylic hardener behind, and it doesn't penetrate as well as CPES™. We do not recommend it.
What if you have resin on hand that you want to use? Will it bond with the CPES™? The answer is yes. Any epoxy or urethane resin/paint/coating will make a tight molecular bond with the CPES™. If you have resin on hand that you want to use, it'll work. It is also been suggested that you can heat a standard resin and possibly even the wood itself for greater penetration. We believe that heating polymer resins and wood is not a good idea -- for obvious reasons. It can be dangerous, the penetration will be much less than CPES™, and it will dry hard and brittle. Rocks in your wood again.
This stuff is very easy to use . . .
NOTE: Use disposable natural-bristle brushes (Foam brushes melt). For an excellent syringe, order Dr. Rot's CPES Injection Kit which also includes everything you'll need for the injection method. Spray bottles w/funnels are also available.
and for a few days while it is curing.
WARNING: This product is inherently unsafe. It cannot be made safe. That's why it works so well. We recommend the use of a respirator capable of filtering organic solvent fumes and vinyl gloves during application.
Product Coverage and Shelf Life
The coverage of CPES™ will depend entirely on the surface to which it is being applied. On rotted logs in log homes it can take a gallon every three to four feet to soak bad wood, yet for surface application on clean, sanded hardwood it can go about 300 sq. feet per gallon (7 sq. meters/liter). In any application of CPES™ the key is to allow the wood to absorb all that it can. It is especially important that CPES™ be applied generously to edges and end-grain areas because this is where the rot likes to get started.
To determine how much CPES™ you might need, use your best judgment based on the type, finish and condition of the wood. On new wood you can plan between 200 and 300 sq ft per gallon (5-7 sq meters/liter), although on rough, porous woods such as Cedar the coverage can go down to 100 sq ft per gallon (2.5 sq meters/liter). If the wood is rotted or deteriorated, or if there are large areas of end-grain, then it's pretty much a guess. Just look at the area that is going to be treated, imagine how much water it would absorb if generously applied, and that's going to be close to the amount of CPES™ you will require.
And remember -- the drier the wood the better the absorption. If you press the wood and water emerges then it's too wet for CPES™ treatment. If it's slightly damp application is okay, but you should always try to apply CPES™ to wood which is in the normal range, 12% to 20% moisture in average humidity conditions.
CPES™ USES & TECHNIQUES
Next, apply CPES™ by brush and/or syringe generously until the wood will accept no more and it pools or dribbles out of the rotted area. Allow the epoxy to fully cure (see time chart above). Next, depending on the situation, we do one of two things:
Sometimes the deteriorated wood is in such a location that tearing away at the wood is not practical. In this case, we use a long-shank 1/4" bit to drill downward sloping holes and determine the extent, type and degree of rot present. If the whole piece of wood is gone, then there's nothing to do but replace it. CPES™ is good but it won't work miracles. More often than not, there is still good wood around and the rot is reasonably dry. A compressor with air hoses can be used to blow dry air through the wood if necessary. We then inject the CPES™ until it flows out the holes or runs out of the wood somewhere else. After curing, we follow this up with Layup and Laminating™ Epoxy Resin until the wood will accept no more. This sometimes must be done in multiple sequences until the void is effectively filled with cured resin. Occasionally there are pockets of "black mush", wood so far gone and wet that there is nothing to do but chisel through and scoop it all out. Dry with a hair dryer or blower and the follow the epoxy sequence outlined above.
The Use of Borates:
As a primer on wood:
One generous coating of CPES™ is usually sufficient, although in areas that require additional protection multiple coats can be applied. CPES™ can be used over wood stains once they are completely dry. The CPES™ will not redistribute the stain in any way. CPES™ is a light amber color and it's effect on the color of wood is about the same as normal varnish - it will darken it.
When applied as a paint/varnish primer outdoors, apply early enough in the day to prevent evening dew/condensation from contaminating a wet CPES™ application.
Mixing Containers: CPES™ can be mixed in polyethylene and polypropylene
containers (plastic paint buckets, margarine tubs, cottage cheese tubs, etc.),
and metal containers. Do not use paper containers (cardboard paint buckets),
polystyrene (foam) containers, or any disposable drink containers.
As a general purpose sealant and preservative:
ALWAYS MIX THOROUGHLY!
The Rot Doctor, Inc.
P.O. Box 30612 • Seattle, WA 98113
Voice: 206.364.2155 • Fax: 206.364.4744
© 1997-2018 The Rot Doctor, Inc.
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Tech support is available over weekends and holidays.